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Peach culture in California

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Bibliographic data

fullscreen: Peach culture in California

Monograph

Identifikator:
1833271505
URN:
urn:nbn:de:zbw-retromon-221985
Document type:
Monograph
Author:
Overholser, E. L. http://d-nb.info/gnd/123737538X
Duruz, W. P.
Title:
Peach culture in California
Place of publication:
Berkeley
Publisher:
Univ. of Calif.
Year of publication:
1930
Scope:
55 S.
Ill.
Digitisation:
2022
Collection:
Economics Books
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Chapter

Document type:
Monograph
Structure type:
Chapter
Title:
Laying out and planting the peach orchard
Collection:
Economics Books

Contents

Table of contents

  • Peach culture in California
  • Title page
  • Conditions and prospects of the peach industry
  • California peach districts
  • Choosing a location for peaches
  • Varieties of peaches for the orchard
  • Propagation, selection and care of nursery stock
  • Laying out and planting the peach orchard
  • Care of the peach orchard
  • Peach diseases and their control
  • The control of insects and other pests
  • Spraying and dusting
  • Harvesting and handling

Full text

29 CALIFORNIA AGRICULTURAL EXTENSION SErvicE [Ome 42 
with burlap or eanvas as they are hauled to the orchard; cut off 
bruised, broken, interfering, dead, dried, or unhealthy roots: discard 
trees with galls on the roots. 
The planting board is placed in its original position and the tree is 
set against the center notch. It is planted about the same depth that 
it stood in the nursery, with the roots in their natural position. Moist, 
fine, surface soil is then sifted about them and should be firmed care- 
fully. Unless the soil is moist, water is given by irrigation or from a 
tank wagon. 
Heading and Shaping —The tree is cut back at planting time to 
restore the balance between top and root and to obtain the benefits of 
low heading. Most vigorous peach trees grow side branches in the nur- 
sery. Some trees, such as ‘June buds’ may form only a ‘whip’ with no 
side branches. When pruning the nursery tree, make use as far as 
possible of the satisfactory available side branches in forming the 
framework. The laterals selected should be vigorous and upright and 
not spindling and drooping. If it is necessary to remove all of the 
laterals they should be cut off not closer than one-half inch from the 
trunk. This is done to preserve the buds at the base which later may 
send out vigorous shoots. If the tree is a straight ‘whip’ it is cut back 
to a healthy bud about 24 inches above the ground. If, however, the 
tree has formed lateral branches, then three of the strongest of these, 
properly spaced on the trunk, are left to be developed into the main 
scaffold branches. The undesirable lateral branches are cut off. A 
desirable tree is one with three symmetrically directed branches 
selected to form the framework, spaced about six to eight inches apart 
on the trunk, with the lowest branch about eight inches above the 
ground. The three scaffold branches should be spaced as nearly 
equidistant around the trunk as possible. 
Whitewashing.— After planting and pruning, the trees, especially 
if large in diameter, may be whitewashed to prevent sunburn. Sun- 
burn may oceur on hot bright days when the tree has inadequate leaves 
to protect it from the direct rays of the sun. Sunburn is not only a 
direct injury, but it also favors the entrance of borers and decay 
organisms. One formula for whitewash is as follows: Quicklime 5 
pounds, salt 14 pound and sulfur V5 pound. Stir in the salt and sulfur 
while the lime is slaking. Omit the salt when deer or rabbits may be 
troublesome. 
Tree Protectors—Oceasionally rabbits may ‘bark’ the young 
trees. In unusual cases it may be desirable to protect the trunks with 
small wire mesh, or commercial tree protectors, various sorts of which 
are on the market. selling for from $10.00 to $20.00 per thousand.
	        

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Peach Culture in California. Univ. of Calif., 1930.
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