142 WOMEN’S MUSLIN-UNDERWEAR INDUSTRY.
the Plc they are sewn on the Jaren, The setting on of the ruffle
to the garment is known as ruffle setting.
In tucking, the formation of thefolds and the number of tucks de-
sired depend upon the tucking combination and the number of needles
attached to the machine.
For scalloping, automatic scalloping machines are employed to
embroider scallops of various forms or festoons on materials which
are to be used on petticoats and other lingerie. The style of em-
broidery desired can be produced by the use of cams which can be
fitted to the machine.
11. Buttonholes are nearly all made by machines, the hand method
being slow and expensive. However, there are certain delicate mate-
rials in the high-priced garments which require the buttonholes to be
made by hand.
12. Button sewing is performed either by hand or by machine.
When by hand, it is done by an unskilled worker who is a learner in
the industry. DButton-sewing machines, however, are supplantin,
handwork. These machines make a specified number of stitches wa
Srongly attach the button to the material, then tie and cut the
thread.
The above description of processes conveys an idea of the impor-
tance that the development of the machine has played in the white-
goods industry. The machine companies are constantly planning
and building new machines and devices to lessen the SA of the
operator and increase the speed and efficiency of the operation.
Practically all machines in the industry are run by electric power.
Finishing department.—After the machine operations have been
performed the work is sent to the finishing department. In this de-
partment only hand labor is employed. The divisions are:
1. Ribboning and rosette making.
2. Cleaning and finishing.
3. Examining.
4. Pressing.
5. Boxing.
Ribboning consists of drawing ribbons through lace beadings and
insertions on corset covers, gowns, slips, and skirts. It includes the
making of rosettes and bows and sewing them on. The work does
not require a high grade of skill. The ribboners may also do the work
of finishing and cleaning. The finishers and cleaners look over the
garments, remove threads and rough seams, and clean them. The
garments then go to the examiner, who looks after the workmanship
and checks up the sizes to see that the measurements are correct.
The examiner may also do cleaning. All these persons are usually
time workers. The process of pressing is the last one performed on
the garments. - The pressers are fairly skilled and are usually piece-
workers. They use either electric or gas irons in pressing the gar-
ments, after 4 they fold them, placing tissue paper between the
folds and pinning them together. In some factories the pressers put
the garments in pasteboard boxes, while in others the boxing is per-
formed by time workers, who are usually attached to the shipping
department. The style, lot number, and size are marked on the out-
or of the box. The garments are completed when they leave the
finishing department, from which they are sent to the stockroom and
shipping department.