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THROUGH THE DARK CONTINENT. 
and Usuguni Island, there is a strait about three-quarters of a mile wide, 
through which we passed to Fisherman’s Island, where we rested for our noon 
day meal. At 2 p.m. we arrived, after an hour’s rowing, near Ngevi Island, 
and when close to it, we were compelled to take shelter from a furious 
nor’-wester. 
We had been at anchor scarcely ten minutes before we saw a small canoe, 
paddled by two men, boldly approach us from the shore of Ugamba, distant 
about a mile and a half on our right or to the east of us. In our mildest 
accents we hailed them, and, after a protracted interval employed by them in 
curiously scanning us, they permitted us to hear the sound of their voices. 
But nothing would induce them to come nearer than about 100 yards. In 
the midst of these vain efforts to win their confidence, a canoe similar in form 
and colour to that which had won our admiration at Muiwanda advanced 
towards us. A false prow projected upward, curving in the shape of a bent 
elbow, from the tip of which to the top of the bow of the canoe was strung a 
taut line, and along this was suspended some fine grass, which waved like a 
mane as she charged up, bold and confident, propelled by forty paddlers. 
Half of this number, who were seated forward, sprang up when they came 
within 60 yards, and, seizing long tufted lances and shields, began to sway 
them menacingly. As we made no demonstration of resistance, they advanced 
cautiously, and when within 20 yards, swerved aside, wheeling round us in a 
defiant style. 
Finally we broke silence, and demanded who they were, and why tlicy 
came up as though they would attack us. As they did not understand 
either Kingwana, Kisukuma, or Kinyamwezi, one of my boatmen attempted 
Kiganda, a little of which they appeared to understand ; and by this means 
wo opened a conversation. They edged towards us a little nearer, and ended 
by ranging their long canoe alongside of our boat. Our tame, mild manners 
were in striking contrast to their bullying, overbearing, and insolent de 
meanour. The paddlers, half of whom were intoxicated, laid their hands with 
familiar freedom upon everything. We still smiled, and were as mild and 
placable as though anger and resentment could never enter our hearts. We 
were so courteous, indeed, that we permitted them to handle our jxîrsons with 
a degree of freedom which to them apixjared unaccountable—unless we were 
80 timid that we feared to give offence. If we had been so many sheep, wo 
could not have borne a milder or a more innocent asjxict. Our bold friends, 
reeling and jostling one another in their eagerness to offend, seized their sjKîar.s 
and shields, and began to chant in bacchanalian tones a song that was tipsily 
discordant. Some seized their slings and Hung stones to a great distance, 
which we applauded. Then one of them, under the influence of wine, and 
spirits elated by the chant, waxed bolder, and looked as though he would aim 
at myself, seated observant but mute in the stern of my Wat. I made a 
motion with my hand as though deprecating such an action. The sooty