SALESMAN AND CUSTOMER 251 America are terrible. Toilet and bathing ac commodations are poor, the cooking vile and the dishes unpalatable, while the beds are in tolerable. Vaults in American cemeteries are far preferable as residential quarters in com parison with some rooms I have slept in in this part of the world, especially in the small towns and villages of the interior. Conditions be come rapidly worse the farther away one gets from the larger cities, and as one penetrates out of the way places hammocks and your own food supplies are to be recommended. It would be almost impossible to describe the primitiveness which exists in this part of the' Western Continent away from the beaten path. Travel facilities are execrable. Trains are slow and late and accommodations decidedly bad. Steamers are small and stuffy and not safe. River boats are provided with few if any conveniences. Going up the Magdalena River in Colombia from Barranquilla to Bogota, a journey of about ten days, the travel ler formerly had to provide his own sleeping accommodations and this was wise, and it al