140 WOMEN’S MUSLIN-UNDERWEAR INDUSTRY. 
numbers, sizes, and quantities being marked on a ticket attached to 
each bundle. They are then delivered to the clerk or foreman of the 
machine-operating department, who stacks them away ready for dis- 
tribution to the machine operators. 
Trimming-cutting or sloping department—When an order slip is 
sent to the cutting department, a duplicate form is sent to the trim- 
ming-cutting or sloping department. The work here consists of cut- 
ting or sloping the insertions of embroidery and lace to be used in the 
iment, If the plant is a large one, this department is distinct 
rom the cloth-cutting department and the work is performed by 
time-workers, mostly Tt However, if the plant is small or em- 
ploys but little trimming on the Tras the work is performed by 
apprentices in the cloth-cutting a 
Machine-operating Sma he division of labor in the ma- 
chine-operating of muslin underwear depends upon the quality and 
style and upon the different articles produced in the factory, but 
the general processes are as follows: 
1. Seaming, felling, goring, closing, and joining. 
2. Body making and shoulder joining. 
3. Yoke and front making and setting. 
Sleeve making and setting. 
Stripping, facing, and slit making. 
. Belt making and setting. 
+. Hemming. 
3. Lace running or Jooparing 
9. Trimming: (a) Plain, (b) zigzag, (¢) overlock. 
10. Hemstitching, ruffling, tucking, and scalloping. 
11. Buttonhole making. 
12. Button sewing. 
The name of a process in one plant may signify a slightly different 
operation than in another. Several of the machine operations may 
be performed by the same worker, who in such cases is usually a time- 
worker. The order in which the different Spoatims are perioned 
is not always the same, as it Goperys upon the nature of the articles 
and the method employed by the factory. 
1. Seaming, felling, goring, and closing are nearly the same. Prac- 
tically all muslin underwear has to be seamed. The seaming of gores 
in a petticoat is known as goring, in a nightgown as felling seams. 
The process consists of sewing the separate parts of a garment into a 
skeleton or body. Itisasimple machine [rques and one on which the 
new machine operators are employed. High-speed machines, capable 
of stitching 3,000 to 3,500 stitches per minute, are employed. 
2. The operation of making the body of a gown. or corset cover, etc., 
which may consist simply of seaming or joining the shoulders, or 
making the skeleton by seaming the principal parts of the garment 
is called body making or ‘‘setting up’ the body. 
3. Yoke and front making and setting consists of sewing together 
the different parts which make up the front or yoke of the garment 
and setting it into the body. A garment may have a front and back 
yoke, depending on the style. The amount of work depends on the 
cut of the style and the amount of embroidery and lace used. Some 
yokes are extremely fancy and complicated and are made up wholly 
of lace and embroidery trimmings. The yoking process is required 
on. nighteowns, princess slips, combinations, nL corset covers.