1930] Praca CuLTUurRe IN CALIFORNIA 25 
Second Summer’s Pruning. —Usually the second summer’s pruning 
consists in the removal of undesirable water sprouts early in the 
summer. If each main branch has not produced two secondary 
branches these may be selected and other competing shoots pinched 
back or removed. 
Second Dormant Pruming—During the second winter thin out the 
growth made the previous summer, leaving six or eight selected 
secondary branches for the additional framework. These branches 
should generally not be eut except to balance the tree. In addition, 
thin out interfering, surplus branches or those in the way of cultiva- 
tion. By cutting forked branches unequally, weak crotches can be 
avoided, since the longer branch of a fork will gain the ascendency. 
Prune so as to get a spread while the tree is young by making inside 
cuts; but after the tree comes into bearing make the cuts preferably 
on the outside to lessen decay at pruning wounds, to reduce sun-scald 
on the inside of main branches and to reduce possible breakage at point 
of cut under the weight of the erop. 
Third and Succeeding Summer’s Pruning. —Summer pruning may 
be continued as long as it is necessary to obtain more branching or to 
remove watersprouts that are shading the lower parts of the tree. 
Severe pruning in the summer is weakening. 
The Third Dormant Pruning. —Continue thinning out interfering 
branches, or those in the way of cultivation. Remove watersprout 
growth. Seek to have the center of the tree somewhat open; but there 
should be enough side branches and twigs to shade the main limbs and 
to bear fruit. In pruning permit the more stocky twigs to remain 
when possible, and remove the slender, spindly ones. 
Pruning the Bearing T'ree.®—In the case of bearing trees, instead 
of cutting back to stubs, it is better to cut to vigorous lateral growth 
and thus judiciously thin out the tree. Start the thinning out process 
near the base of the tree. Leave the willowy, drooping branches or 
‘hangers’ intact except when they are in the way of cultivation, or are 
anable to support a desirable amount of fruit. Continue the pruning 
by removing old or useless wood and the small dead twigs that can be 
removed without much trouble. The crop is largely carried by the 
one-year-old twigs borne on the two and three-year-old wood. Pruning 
should be sufficiently severe to cause the annual shoot growth to be 
from 10 to 24 inches long. 
Careful pruning of the fruit-bearing laterals above the second 
srotches is needed to properly distribute the fruiting wood along these 
10 Tufts, W. P.—Pruning bearing deciduous fruit trees. California Agr. Exp. 
Sta, Bul, 886:1-47. 1925.