STUTTGART.
477
promoted by a “ Wurtemberg League for Trade and Industry,” whose object it
is “ to combat in all legal ways the injurious excrescences of economic
life, and especially the co-operative stores, hawking and travelling in the retail
trade, itinerant cheap-jacks, the warehouses, and the contract system.” Both
the co-operators and the private traders publish small newspapers which
energetically advocate their respective theories of trade.
Meat.
The one public market hall of Stuttgart is so small, and the provision
made within it for the sale of meat so limited, that as a centre of distribution
it is of little consequence as compared with the butchers’ shops which
are to be found :'n every important street. It is not the general rule for
butchers to do an all-round trade in fresh meat ; the best butchers confine
themselves to beef, mutton, and veal ; many butchers do not sell mutton at all,
and pork is largely sold in special shops devoted entirely to that meat, both
fresh and cured, or prepared in the form of sausage. The slaughter-house,
through which all the meat exposed for sale must pass,is in private hands. It
is here, however, that the official veterinary inspection of animals intended
for food takes place, an inspection which is thorough and affords the public every
reasonable guarantee against injury. The grazing districts of \\ urtemberg supply
Stuttgart with a very large proportion of its flesh food, except in the case of beef, of
which much comes from Bavaria through the markets of Munich and Nuremberg ;
during 1905 Austria also sent a considerable number of live cattle to Stuttgart,
but since the introduction of the new Customs Tariff this source of supply has
been cut off. Mutton comes from various parts of Wurtemburg and also from
Bavaria. The pork is largely of home production, but some comes from North
Germany. The veal is likewise of Wurtemberg origin.
Yet the Stuttgart working classes are not great meat eaters; as in
Wurtemberg generally, farinaceous food, in the form of puddings and especially
dumplings, takes the place on the dinner and supper table which in North
Germany is given to meat and meat preparations. Of mutton, as in most parts
of Germany, hardly any is eaten—a certain prejudice appears to be the explana
tion ; and fish is even more disregarded. It is a notable fact that the mutton
consumed in Stuttgart does not form 3 per cent, of the entire flesh food which
passes yearly through the abattoir.
The meat consumption of Stuttgart, including fowl and game, averaged
over the whole population, amounted in 1900, when the maximum was reached,
to 147*8 lb. per head; in 1903 it was 143 lb. per head; in 1904 it was
140*8 lb. per head ; and in 1905 the consumption was estimated at 125 5 lb.
per head, though the data for calculation are no longer so exact since the
abolition of the municipal tax on meat in April of the latter year. Imported
sausage is not included in this estimate.
An analysis of 156 returns of weekly meat consumption obtained for the
purpose of the present report from working-class families, containing 655
persons, showed a weekly consumption per head of 201 ounces, which would
mean a little over 67 lb. a year. Of the meat consumed 42 per cent, was beef,
19 per cent, pork and bacon, and 27 per cent, sausage.
The Stuttgart working man has other peculiarities in the matter of his meat
diet. He will not eat fat and he has a rooted aversion to minced meat, which in
North Germany is the principal ingredient in several dishes and especially in
fricandedles and a highly-seasoned dish known as “German steak.” The fat
rejected in the butcher’s shop is melted down and serves culinary purposes in other
ways. Smoked bacon is seldom eaten raw in Wurtemberg, because it is not
thoroughly cured, whether fat or streaky. Such streaky bacon as is so eaten is
not of local origin, but comes either from the Black Forest or North Germany,
though also in a less degree from the Swabian Alp, a mountain district between
the Neckar and the Danube, the “ country bacon ” (Bauernspeck) from which
has a high reputation.
In Stuttgart as in some parts of Bavaria it is customary to charge a uniform
price for most cuts of meat, whether beef, mutton, veal, or pork. The only