112 
THROUGH THE DARK CONTINENT. 
aft, and, fastening a double rope to the stone anchor, prepared every mug and 
baler for tho^rain with which wq. were threatened. The wind then fell, as 
though from above, upon our bowed heads with an overpowering force, 
striving against the resistance which it met, as if it would bear us down to 
the bottom of the lake, and then, repelled by the face of the water, it brushed 
it into millions of tiny ripples. The temperature fell to 62® Fahr., and with 
this sudden cold down dropped a severe shower of hailstones of great size, 
which pelted us with great force, and made our teeth chatter. After this the 
rain fell in sheets, while the lightning blazed, preceding the most dreadful 
thunder-claps I remember to have ever heard. 
The rain, indeed, fell in such quantities that it required two men for each 
section to keep the hoat sufficiently buoyant to ride the crest of the waves. 
The crew cfied out that the boat was sinking—that, if the rain continued in 
such volume, nothing could save us. In reply, I only urged them to bale her 
out faster. 
The sable mass of Usuguru—as I observed by the bars of intense light 
which the lightning flashed almost every second—was still in front, and I 
knew, therefore, that we were not being swept very fast to sea. Our energies 
were wholly devoted to keeping our poor pelted selves afloat, and this occupied 
the crew so much that they half forgot the horrors of the black and diimal 
night. Pci two hours this experience lasted, and then, unburdening our 
breasts witk. sighs of gladness not unmixed with gratitude, we took our anchor 
on board, and stole through the darkness to the western side of Ngevi Island, 
where, after kindling a Are, we dried our clothes and our wetted bodies, and, 
over a hot potful of Liebig, affected to laugh at our late critical position. 
In the morning the world appeared re-born, for the sky was a bluish crystal, 
the shores looked as if fresh painted in green, the lake shone like burnished 
steel, the atmosphere seemed created for health. Glowing with new life, wo 
emerged out of our wild arbour of cane and mangrove to enjoy the glories of 
a gracious heaven, and the men relieved their grateful breasts by chanting 
loudly and melodiously one of their most animating boat-songs. 
As we rowed in this bright mood across the bay of Ugamba, we noticed a 
lofty mount which I should judge to be fully 3000 feet above the lake, towards 
the north-east. From the natives of Usamu Island, we obtained the name of 
Marsawa for this the most conspicuous feature of the neighbourhood. After 
obtaining a clear meridian altitude, on a small island between Usamu and 
Namungi, we steered for the latter. The art of pleasing was never attempted 
with such effect as at Namungi. Though we had great difficulty in even 
obtaining a hearing, wo persisted in the practice of the art with all its 
amusing variations, until our perseverance was finally rewarded. A young 
fisherman was despatched to listen from the shore, but the young wretch 
merely stared at ua. We tossed into his canoe a bunch of beads, and ho 
understood their signification, ile shouted out to his fellows on the shore, wlx»