Full text : Cost of living in German towns

218

DÜSSELDORF.

Meat.
The  Düsseldorf  supply  of  fresh  meat  consists  almost  entirely  of  German
produce.  Oxen,  cows  and  heifers  are  brought  in  from  Rhineland,  Westphalia
and  Berlin  ;  calves  from  Hanover  and  Westphalia  ;  sheep  from  the  latter
province  chiefly,  and  pigs  from  Mecklenburg,  Oldenburg  and  Holstein  as
well  as  from  Westphalia.  A  considerable  amount  of  dead  meat  was  still  being
imported  from  Holland  in  October,  1905,  but  since  March,  1906,  the  supply  from
that  quarter  has  almost  ceased  owing  to  the  increase  in  the  import  duties.  The
nearest  estimate  of  the  meat  consumption  of  the  town  is  the  quantity  which
passes  into  the  market  through  the  public  abattoir.  This  amounted  in  1905  to
143’8  lb.  per  head,  against  147’2  lb.  in  1904,  and  120  3  lb.  in  1903,  but
owing  to  the  reservation  named  these  figures  must  be  regarded  as  understating
the  actual  consumption.  On  the  other  hand,  the  consumption  by  the  workingclasses
  as  attested  by  126  returns  obtained  for  this  enquiry,  and  representing
593  persons,  of  weekly  expenditure  on  meat,  only  amounts  to  25J  oz.  a  head
per  week,  or  approximately  83  lb.  per  annum.  Of  this  beef  accounted  for
35  per  cent.,  sausage  for  25  per  cent.,  bacon  and  pork  for  21  per  cent.,  and
mutton  for  7  per  cent.  The  last  is  a  high  proportion  as  compared  with  other
German  towns.
The  Düsseldorf  workman  rarely  sees  a  joint  of  meat  upon  his  table,  small
pieces  weighing  from  half  a  pound  to  a  pound  being  the  usual  quantities  served
over  the  counter.  As  will  be  seen  from  the  foregoing  figures,  beef  and  pork
are  much  more  frequently  eaten  than  mutton  or  veal.  The  meat  is  usually
boiled  in  the  first  instance  in  order  to  make  the  indispensable  soup.  After
that  it  is  fried  or  otherwise  browned  on  the  surface,  flavoured,  and  served  with
some  kind  of  vegetable  (very  frequently  beans)  and  potatoes.  Steaks  and
chops  are  considered  far  too  expensive,  but  it  must  be  remembered  that  a
mutton  or  pork  chop  is  not  the  same  thing  in  Germany  as  in  the  United
Kingdom.  Every  vestige  of  the  fat  is  carefully  removed,  so  that  it  consists
only  of  the  bone  and  the  lean  part,  frequently  spoken  of  as  the  “  eye.”  Such
mutton  as  is  eaten  by  the  working  classes  usually  comes  from  the  neck  or  the
breast.  The  same  price  is  charged  for  any  part  of  the  neck,  usually  6^d.  to  Id.
per  pound.  Ko  frozen  or  chilled  meat  is  imported.
Some  1,700  horses  are  slaughtered  for  consumption  in  the  Düsseldorf
abattoir  in  the  course  of  a  year  and  there  are  six  butchers  in  the  town  who  sell
only  this  description  of  meat.  The  horses  come  from  all  parts  of  Germany,
especially  the  East  and  South,  but  also  from  England.  English  horses  are
preferred.  For  an  old  worked-out  horse  £2  or  £3  is  given.  Good  horses,  which
happen  to  have  been  lamed,  fetch  as  much  as  £7  and  in  exceptional  cases  £9.
The  carriage  from  England  amounts  to  £4  and  a  duty  of  £2  10s.  has  to
be  paid  ;  an  English  horse  costs  the  Düsseldorf  butcher  £10  on  the  average.
Native  horses  can  be  got  to  the  abattoir  at  a  total  cost  of  £4  to  £5,  or  even  less.
The  utmost  care  is  taken  that  only  healthy  horses  are  offered  as  food.  Both
before  and  after  killing,  a  horse  is  examined  by  the  veterinary  surgeon  attached
to  the  public  slaughter-house  and  the  butcher  is  required  to  keep  a  register,
which  is  periodically  examined,  giving  the  following  data  :  sex  and  colour,  age,
size,  special  characteristics,  day  of  purchase,  name  of  vendor  and  remarks  as  to
its  origin,  certificate  of  veterinary  surgeon  as  to  condition  on  first  and  second
examination  respectively,  day  of  slaughter  and  of  sale  elsewhere,  and  other
remarks.  One  of  the  local  restaurant  proprietors,  who  sells  only  horse-flesh,
cuts  up  two  horses  every  Saturday  and  provides  a  dish  of  horse-flesh  (stewed),
including  potatoes,  at  35  pfennige  (about  4d.).  The  usual  retail  prices  of
horseflesh  per  pound  in  Düsseldorf  are  as  follows  :—

d.

Fillet  Steak
Meat  for  boiling  ..

for  roasting..

Liver
Kidneys  ...
Sausage—

From  liver
Hard  (Plockwurst)
            
Waiting...

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