BERLIN.
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each season. Thus there is no contact whatever between the manufacturers and
the tailors who do the work. The Berlin clothing manufacturer is, in fact, only
a manufacturer in name ; the real manufacturer is the contractor, who is supplied
with the cloth to be cut up, works to his models on commission, and for the
rest engages his labour on the cheapest terms which the market allows.. The
question has often been asked, is the middleman a necessary element in the
clothing trade? In Berlin the answer is in the affirmative, and it is contended
that the abolition of this intermediary form of employment would revolutionise
the conditions under which the clothing trade has for years been carried on,
without any guarantee that the workers in general would benefit.
The investigation made by the Berlin Chamber of Commerce established
the fact that of the money paid by the manufacturer to the middleman the
latter retains about one-half in the ladies’ dress and mantle trade, which entails
on him most expense both in the preparatory and finishing processes, for he has
to pay the cutters, button-hole makers, ironers, &c., while in the cheaper men’s
and boys’ clothing trade he retains about one-third of the gross proceeds, from
which again have to be deducted the costs of his own workshops. Many of the
middlemen are not tailors by trade, but merely enterprising men of good
organising capacity who have seen a " good thing ” in the clothing trade and
from small beginnings have built up a remunerative connection.
Owing to the seasonal character of the trade and the irregular hours
worked the earnings of the tailors are very unequal. Approximately they may
be given as follows for a full week’s work, payment being by piece :—
(1) Ladies’ and children’s mantle trade, men 30s. per week, women 16s. ;
(2) Ladies’ costume, coat, and blouse trade, women 15s. 6d ; (3) Men’s and
boys’ dress trade, men 25s. to 35s., women 14s. For one or two months in the
year, however, there is little or nothing to do. Tailors employed in workshops
have better wages, and in the season good men can regularly earn 36s. It must
be remembered that a large proportion of the home workers are married women,
who in this way seek to supplement the earnings of the chief bread-winner, and are
only able to devote odd hours to the work. How largely the custom of home
working is a result of poverty may be concluded from a statement made in
a memorial lately addressed to the Berlin Tramway Company by their
employees : "The tramway employee is unfortunately unable to dispense with
the earnings of his wife, even in normal domestic conditions, if he would
maintain his family properly. The wife has really no choice in the matter.”
So, too, of 2,051 municipal employees interrogated on the subject in 1905,
416, or 20*2 per cent., replied that their wives worked for money, 170 at
charing, 161 as home workers, 17 in factories, and 68 in other ways. The
earnings of 66 were under 3s. per week, those of 278 were from 3s. to 6s.,
of 46 from 7s. to 10s., and 25 earned more than 10s. weekly.
Although the tramways, the electric power and lighting service, and some
of the gasworks are still in private hands, the municipality of Berlin is the largest
of local employers, its workpeople of all classes numbering some 13,000. The
general rate of pay for unskilled labourers is 21s. for 60 hours’ work, rising to
24s., according to the years of service. Twelve years ago threepence per hour
was a common rate for labourers employed on street and other outdoor work.
The drivers of the principal Tramway Company begin with 25s. per week
and rise to a maximum of 33s. after 20 years’ service, and the conductors
begin with 22s. and rise to 30s. For several years the municipal workpeople of
Berlin have enjoyed various concessions such as summer holidays, special help
in sickness, pensions, and grants to widows and orphans. Here the municipality
is following in the footsteps of the larger employers of labour, some of whom
make liberal provision of the kind. The Siemens-Schuckert-Halske Electrical
Companies paid in the year 1905-1906, in connection with their various estab
lishments in Berlin and elsewhere, £7,230 in 310 old-age and other yearly
pensions, £4,171 in temporary grants to 403 widows and 385 children, £102
to six widows on re-marriage, and £274 in benefactions to 253 other individuals,
making a total grant of £11,777. Pension and distress funds also exist in
connection with the Borsig, Loewe, Berlin-Anhalt, Keyling & Thomas, and
other engineering works, as well as with the Tramway Company. Gifts at
Christmas, at marriage, and at the confirmation of children are common, and
some firms not only keep open the positions of men called to military service
but make grants to their families during their absence.
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