DIFFERENTIATION OF AN EMPLOYING CLASS IN TRADES 513
was likely to arise so soon as the master-tailor owned and AD, 1553
traded in materials on which he worked. There had been
a considerable amount of trouble in the trade, as early as
the fifteenth century, when the management of the London
tailors’ gild appears to have passed into the hands of men
who were more concerned in the cloth trade than in making
clothes. The journeymen tailors, who worked for wages, had
become a well-defined class; and early in the eighteenth
century, they were definitely organised in a Trade Union.
Their society appears to have been a new thing; in 17213 it
was composed of wage-earners, who were primarily concerned
in trying to secure better terms for themselves from their
masters; it was not a gild, or company, consisting of inde-
pendent masters who were anxious to maintain due super-
vision over the manner in which work was done. It had no
direct concern with the public, but only with the relations
between masters and men.
The most serious grievances on the part of the workmen, Capitalism
during the eighteenth century, arose in connection with an dy
industry where the capitalist’s position was due not so much
bo his skill as an organiser or supervisor or his possession of
the materials, as to the fact that he owned the machinery
which was necessary for the prosecution of the trade. The
framework knitting trade had been organised on capitalist
lines from the first, and the efforts to control the action of
the employers in the interest of the hands, proved ineffective.
The stocking frame had been invented in the time of Queen
Elizabeth; and a considerable industry had sprung up in
Nottinghamshire, as well as in London, where a Company
was formed which assumed power to regulate the trade of
the Framework Knitters®. One very important point in the
rules they laid down was that they were careful about limiting
the number of apprentices. They had been chartered by
Cromwell, and again by Charles II.; and the trade appears to
was fol-
Towed by
rganisa-
Wom among
the wage-
earners.
| See Vol. 1. 444. 2 F. W. Galton, Select Documents on Tailoring Trade, XVI.
8 One man who objected to their regulations tried to migrate with his frame to
Amsterdam, but he had no success. Felkin, A History of the Machine-wrought
Hosiery, 61. Pains were taken to prevent the trade from being planted in foreign
parts, as the exportation of the machinery was forbidden, by Proclamation (16 Jan.
1666), [Brit. Mus. 1851. d. 23 (8)], and by Statute (7 and 8 W. ILL. ¢. 20, § 8).
39